It’s the final instalment in my Postcards from Palma series and I’m sharing my favourite foodie finds. Whether you’re looking for traditional dishes, local flavours and/or the perfect pastry, I’ve got a suggestion for you. I hope you’re hungry!
For the Traditional Mallorcan Ensaimadas
Can Joan de s’Aigo
I don’t want to be pushy but you must not leave Palma without trying an ensaimada! This spiral shaped sweet pastry is made with strong flour, eggs, water and pork lard and is known for it’s light and airy texture. There’s lots of variation in the fillings, like custard, chocolate or apricot for example.
Word on the street is that C’an Joan de s’Aigo is the place to go, founded in 1700, it’s one of the oldest cafes and ice cream makers on the island of Mallorca. There are actually 3 outposts in Palma now so in the spirit of full and thorough reporting we want to try at least two of them.
To start, we try the one on Carrer del Baró de Santa Maria del Sepulcre simply because it’s closest to our hotel. The interior oozes traditional charm, it almost feels like we’ve time travelled back to a slower, better and certainly very delicious version of life.
Sadly, it’s a bit early for us to indulge in their famous hot chocolate or ice cream but their coffee is also a decent choice – situation pleasing. I choose a custard ensaimada and it doesn’t disappoint. It’s soft, light and has a generous custard filling while David chooses a meat pie AKA an empanada. This place certainly lives up to the hype.
C’an Joan de S’Aigo
The branch on Carrer de Sanç is the original cafe and – depending on who you ask – the best! Stepping into the cafe is like stepping back in time with it’s traditional decor and olde worlde vibes. In fact, I’d go so far as to say it’s worth visiting for the decor alone.
Service is friendly and brisk and here encouraged by our waiter we enjoy a veritable feast. I am desperate to try the chocolate ensaimada (it would be rude not to,) and we add the specialities à la maison – hot chocolate with whipped cream and a serve of their house made almond ice cream to the order. When in Palma and all that…
Fun fact: Their almond ice cream was such good quality that doctors on the island used to prescribe it to patients because of it’s nutritional value. The ice was good for reducing inflammation and the digestive properties and nutritional value of the almonds made the ice cream a big hit with patients. Of course, I have to try it, it’s basically a health food!
We add a chicken empanada (pie) and a crispy bread – which is kind of like a tostada – with pepper and onions. Everything is delicious. David tests the savoury bites and I enjoy the sweets – great taste and great value – all of that comes to less than €17. Now that’s sweet!
For the Croissants of Your Dreams
Fika and Farina
This is the first Swedish sourdough bakery in Palma and have they got buns, hun! The pastries and baked goods here are absolutely outstanding and not to be missed.
Everything is baked fresh on site and their coffee and baked goods live up to the hype. The menu here is more about quality than quantity, think cinnamon buns, cardomam scrolls and croissants of your dreams. Prices are a little above average but as my mum would say, you only get what you pay for.
The store itself is tiny and apart from a tiny bench outside there’s no seating so be prepared to grab your sweet treats to go.
For Mallorcan Variats and Top Tapas
Bodega La Rambla
This old school tavern at the northern end of La Rambla has been a popular Palma meeting spot since the 1940’s. When we visit late on a Monday night, the place is full of tourists and locals with a really relaxed vibe.
Bodega La Rambla is a great spot if you want to try traditional Mallorcan Variat which is essentially a mix of the tapas served in this family run bodega. We choose from the regular tapas menu but both the Variats and Tapas menus offer small and large serves. We go for the spinach croquettes, octopus fritters, battered hake and the super tasty spicy squid in hot sauce.
We think we’re being conservative getting four small plates but the serves here are very generous (especially by UK tapas standards!) The tapas here is well priced – small dishes are around €6 and large are average at about €12 – and super tasty. They don’t serve Sangria but they do serve Tinto Verano (summer red wine) a mix of ice, red wine and lemonade. It’s super sweet and very refreshing, I recommend!
For Rustic Local Tapas
Bar Dia
This place ticks all the boxes. There are no frills but there is friendly service, great food, affordable prices in relaxed and unpretentious surroundings. There’s a bar area with high tables and a dining room to the side and although it’s quiet when we visit mid afternoon, we can see why it gets so busy with locals and tourists alike.
Tapas prices range between €5 and €11 (although a bit more for prawns.) The food comes out pretty quickly and it’s all homemade and super fresh. We try the padron peppers, calamari and patatas bravas – all ‘tapas’ sizes – but portions are so large, we’re almost defeated. The food here is great value and super tasty.
For Tapas, Grills and Traditional Dishes
La Rosa Vermuteria and El Colmado
This is the place to be for tapas and vermouth in Palma. The menu showcases seasonal ingredients, gourmet tinned food and traditional flavours and has an extensive range of vermouth . There’s a lot to love here – the traditional decor, the relaxed but buzzy atmosphere and absolutely delightful service.
It’s super popular with locals and tourists alike so book ahead or be prepared to wait in line. We leave it too late to book and score a table in El Colmado just before the dinner rush. We sit upstairs on the mezzanine which is the perfect spot for feasting and people watching.
We go for the artichokes with a touch of smoked pancetta, the Iberian ham croquettes and garlic prawns cooked with shredded Iberian ham – the latter being mum’s recipe – everything is perfect for sharing and bursting with flavour. However, the chargrilled octopus leg served with paprika oil and black aioli is the standout – if only my picture would do it justice!
For Mallorcan Suckling Pig
Cafe C’an Toni
Head here for traditional cuisine and generous portions all served up in a dining room hung with curing hams or if that’s not your style, there’s a cute terrace overlooking the church of Sant Andreu. It definitely feels more touristy than other venues we visit (and the prices reflect that) but despite that the restaurant is very popular, good value – reservations are recommended – and there’s a lively atmosphere.
Although paella is not traditionally Mallorcan, you’ll find it on the menu at Cafe C’an Toni and in individual serves – perfect if you’re dining companion is not a paella person! I’m here for the paella, David is here for the suckling pig.
Unlike paella, suckling pig known as ‘lechona’ or ‘porcella’ in Spanish and Catalan is a traditional dish of Mallorcan cuisine. Here it’s cooked in a wood fired oven, the meat is deliciously tender and the crackling crispy – it literally melts in your mouth. This is the stuff dreams are made of. The serve of bread here is both generous and delicious and the complimentary spirit at the end of the meal is most welcome!
As you can see Palma is packed with amazing places to eat, and these seven are just a small taste of what the city has to offer. Whether you’re after some delicious baked goods, local tapas, or just a great spot for people-watching with a snack and a drink, there’s something here for everyone. One thing is for sure, you won’t go hungry in Palma!
Have you ever tried an ensaimada? Which of these places tickles your fancy? If you’ve got anything to add to the list, please let me know in the comments.
All food was independently paid for and as always, all opinions are my own.
