Cologne is full of great food, great beer and great coffee and we tracked down some of the best places to eat, drink and caffeinate. This guide to the the best beer, bites and coffee has everything from traditional beer halls where the kolsch flows freely, to cosy cafés serving the perfect latte and restaurants that are genuine Cologne institutions. Whatever you fancy – a cold beer, a tasty bite or a perfect brew – you’ll find it here!
For Old World Vibes and a Traditional Menu
Früh Am Dom
We head straight to this old world beer hall and restaurant immediately after checking in. It’s well into the evening on a Monday night and we’re tired, hungry and in desperate need of some hearty, homestyle sustenance. Inside, rustic wooden tables, tiled fireplaces and endless of wood panelling set the scene. The menu is as traditional as the decor and we opt for the Hämmchen – boiled knuckle of pork with sauerkraut and potato mash. The portion is absolutely enormous!
Every Monday, however, there’s a special menu of homemade potato fritters and I cannot resist. So alongside the pork knuckle (which is definitely big enough to share) we order three potato fritters with black bread and butter on the side for good measure. The fritters arrive light, crispy and golden – the ultimate comfort food.
Of course, no visit is complete without some Kölsch, Cologne’s signature beer, served in small 200ml glasses called Stangen to keep it cold, fresh, and fizzy. The servers AKA Köbes keep the refills coming, carrying large round trays called a Kranz. We lose track of how many we’ve had, but thankfully our trusty server tallies it all up on a beermat.
The Fruh Kolsch itself is crisp, light and easy drinking with a dry, slightly bitter finish that makes it very ‘sessionable.’ If it’s open, don’t miss the Frühshoppen next door where you can stock up on bottled or barrelled Früh plus branded souvenirs including Früh Christmas decorations!
For a Large Menu of Large Schnitzels
Bei Oma Kleinman
Bei Oma Kleinman (which translates to ‘At Grandma Kleinman’s’) may be a little bit off the tourist trail but this Cologne institution is well worth seeking out, especially if you love schnitzel. It’s extremely popular and often fully booked, so while walk-ins are possible, I highly recommend you book to avoid disappointment.
The restaurant prides itself on sourcing it’s meat from humanely managed farms and a fully closed production chain. That said, the menu here is as big as the schnitzels themselves and it’s not all about the meat. You’ll find a choice of pork, veal, cheese or veggie options, all served in enormous portions (though smaller plates are available for children and seniors). And if you can’t quite finish, don’t worry, the friendly staff will happily send you home with a doggy bag, affectionately known as an “Oma bag.”
David is almost (but not quite) defeated by the Westfalen, a hearty plate of schnitzel topped with fried organic eggs, roast potatoes, and a small side salad. It’s a lot! Despite the hustle and the bustle, the service here is warm and attentive and the passion for cooking, eating and socialising shines through.
For a Taste of Bavaria in Cologne
Augustiner am Heumarkt
At this Bavarian brewery in Old Town’s Heumarkt Square, Bavarian hospitality meets Cologne culture. Augustiner beer flows on tap, and the menu is packed with Bavarian specialties like white sausages, pretzels and hearty pork dishes.
We’d heard from fellow travellers that this place was a must-visit, and they weren’t wrong. The restaurant is popular, we’re lucky enough to walk in and score a table but reservations are recommended to avoid disappointment. Despite the bustling beer hall, service is friendly and efficient.
Forewarned by our new friends about the generous portions, we order the whole pork knuckle with sauerkraut and potato dumplings to share and we are still completely full. The pork is melt-in-your-mouth delicious, and of course, we wash it down with a couple of cold beers. It would have been rude not to! As the beer is Bavarian, it’s served in regular (as in larger) sizes – situation pleasing!
For Traditional Beer and Bites in a Contemporary Setting
Gilden Im Zims
We find ourselves here in the name of research as we’ve tried the ‘red’ Kolsch (AKA Früh) it seems only right that we should try the ‘blue’ one. You can’t miss this four storey building in the heart of the Old Town and although the building is first mentioned in 1163, the interior is huge, modern and contemporary.
The menu has everything from light bites to Rhenish specialities, there’s also a decent choice of vegan dishes and a gluten free menu. We only pop in for a light bite and can’t go past an enormo-pickle from the barrel and the ‘Halven Hahn’ – Beemster cheese, a rye roll, butter and red onions.
We wash everything down with some of the Sion Kolsch. It’s clean, crisp and easy drinking although we think the Früh Kölsch is still our favourite.
For Organic Fair Trade Coffee and Tasty Light Bites
Kaffeebar Presswerk Kölm
When we travel, we have a clear division of labour. I usually search for the places to eat and David looks for bars and good coffee. He takes his coffee sourcing responsibilities very seriously so it’s no surprise that he takes us to Presswerk for our morning brew.
This coffee shop is tiny but mighty and has a relaxed and cosy feel. The staff are super friendly, speak excellent English and make us feel really welcome. They also make quality coffee – it really is is top notch and the pastries are delicious too.
For Speciality Ethically Sourced Coffee
True Beans
Located in the Old Town close to the river, this speciality coffee shop is known for it’s high-quality, ethically sourced coffee and it’s bio-friendly roasting process. They really know coffee here.
Inside the cafe is light, airy with a really relaxed vibe. The barista is friendly and the coffee is excellent. Add it to your list!
That’s my round-up of the best bites, beer, and coffee in Cologne. We really rate the food and drink scene in Cologne with everything from hearty local dishes and lively breweries to cool cafés serving serious coffee. These were my highlights, but I know I’ve only scratched the surface, there’s always more to explore!
Have you been to Cologne? What would you add to the list? If you found yourself in town, which of these places would you want to try first?
As always all food and drink was independently for and all opinions are my own.
