A few weeks ago the planets and our social calendars finally aligned and we met up with our old friends Heather and Richard for a quick Northumberland adventure. It’s amazing how much of this beautiful corner of North East England you can squeeze into 36 hours.
A quick disclaimer before the history buffs come for us: we’re very much “look at the castle, admire the view, then find tea and cake and/or a nice pub” travellers. While Northumberland is packed with incredible historic sites, we’re more than happy to appreciate the history from the outside rather than touring every room.
It saves time, money and if we’re honest our attention spans. If you’re someone who loves exploring history to the fullest, you’ll want to add a few extra hours to this itinerary.
Holy Island and Lindisfarne Priory
Timing is everything when visiting Holy Island because the causeway is only accessible at low tide. With the clock quietly ticking, we set off to take in the island highlights as well as lots of photos!
We wander through the village to the atmospheric ruins of Lindisfarne Priory. The visible remains date from the 11th century although the original monastery was founded way back in the 7th century and was famously attacked by the Vikings in 793. At £9 a pop we decide not to go inside the ruins but if you’re an English Heritage member, you can wander in for free!
Lindisfarne Castle
We make a beeline for Lindisfarne Castle, about a 10-15 minute walk from the village and easily one of the island’s highlights. We find the climb to the castle manageable although it’s steep in places and the views make it more than worth it. Even from the entrance, you’re treated to stunning coastal scenes – it’s breathtaking. Entrance to the castle is £10 (free for National Trust members) and while I imagine the views from the upper battery are incredible, we’re more than happy to enjoy the view without paying a penny.
We accidentally miss the Gertrude Jekyll Garden, tucked beside the castle, but we do spend a little time in the “Shack of Positivity” – a tiny hut where you can leave an inspiring Post-it and take one away too. It’s surprisingly lovely, and if there’s one thing the world could do with right now, it’s a bit more positivity!
The island itself has a couple of cosy cafes, pubs, a winery and a few little gift shops. A couple of hours is plenty for us but if you want to properly explore Holy Island, you could easily spend half a day – or longer if the weather plays nice! Just make sure you’ve checked the tide times before you go!
Bamburgh Castle
Pronounced Bam-ber-uh, this dramatic 1400 year old coastal fortress dominates the skyline for miles around. It’s famous for being the first English castle to fall to cannon fire during the War of the Roses in 1462 and for it’s vast array of Anglo-Saxon archeological treasures discovered here. The castle is one of the few castles in the country that’s open all year round. It’s not just the hill that the castle is sits on that’s steep, an adult admission tickets is £19.95. Ooof!
We decide to admire the epic views from below and head for some refreshment at the Copper Kettle Tea Room. With it’s traditional interior, cute courtyard and menu packed with teatime treats and lunchtime heartiness, it’s just the ticket for a morning spent exploring. Even though Teddy isn’t in tow, it’s nice to see a cafe that’s so dog friendly.
Both the boys try the Pan Hegarty – a rustic North East classic traditionally made with thinly sliced potato, onions, mature cheddar cheese and baked until golden and crisp. The tearoom version goes a little off piste made with mash, carrots, leeks and what can only be described as a lorry load of cheese. The giant portion arrives with homemade coleslaw and chutney and is proper comfort food. One thing is for sure – portions in Northumberland are every bit as generous as the hospitality.
Alnwick and Barter Books
Onward to Anwick, (pronounced Annick) a beautifully preserved medieval market town just a short drive away and our base for the evening. We check into our digs, a spacious 2 bed, 2 bath Airbnb apartment right in the heart of town. It’s clean, modern and has everything we need… apart from a TV, according to Richard! If rooms had soundtracks, this one would definitely be ‘Yellow’ by Coldplay.
We head straight out to explore and our first stop is Barters Books. Housed inside the town’s former Victorian train station, it’s one of the largest second-hand bookshops in the UK and easily one of the quirkiest. Inside you’ll find more than 350,000 pre-loved books, comfy armchairs, cosy fireplaces and in a nod to it’s former life, there’s even a model railway chugging along a track above the book shelves!
The old waiting rooms have been converted into seating areas for the cafe and well behaved pups are welcome to browse the shelves with their humans. They can even join them in the pet friendly cafe space aptly called ‘the Waiting Room.’ Honestly, we could spend hours here.
Alnwick Castle
Sadly Alnwick Castle is still closed for the winter during our visit but it is still a treat to admire it from the outside. The 900 year old fortress is the second-largest inhabited castle in the UK and if it looks familiar – it’s because it doubled as Hogwarts in the first two Harry Potter movies. During the main season, tickets bought online cost around £22 for adults but double as an annual pass which is good value if you’re planning a return visit. Tickets for the renowned Alnwick Gardens should be bought separately and cost £16 but sadly, we arrive too late – the gardens close at 4pm. Next time!
We’ve only just scratched the surface of our 36-hour Northumberland adventure. In Part 2, we’ll continue the journey with dinner, more historic highlights, and hidden gems across the coast and countryside. Make sure to check back – there’s plenty more castles, cafés, and quirky spots to discover!
If you were planning a 36-hour trip here, which of these places would you want to see? And would you spend more time inside the castles… or chasing the best tea and cake?
As always, all food, drink and accommodation was independently paid for and all opinions are my own.
