I’m back with another edition of Postcards in Paris – my ongoing love letter to the city of love. On our most recent trip we decided to mix things up and stay somewhere new (to us.) The 6th arrondissement was the perfect base for a short Paris break: great transport links, easy to walk everywhere and more bars, cafes and restaurants than you can shake a stick at.
If you are thinking about wine time, you might want to check out my previous post where to Drink Wine in Paris’ 6th Arrondissement which puts the spotlight on some of our favourite neighbourhood bars. Between coffee, food and wine, one thing is for sure, you’ll be well fed and watered in the 6th arrondissement!
Where to Stay in Paris’ 6th Aronddissement
Hotel Artus
Hotel Artus is our pick of the pops. This delightful boutique hotel sits right in the heart of the action yet manages to feel calm and quiet when inside. The decor is modern, colourful and quirky and our privilege room is very spacious (at least by Paris standards ) at 20 sq m.
The signature rooms have their own elevator tucked away at the rear of the lobby and each room opens on to it’s own private little landing. No shared corridors, no passing traffic – who doesn’t love a bit of privacy?!
We don’t have hotel breakfast but we really appreciate the complimentary tea, coffee and water station in the lobby. There is a glass bottle of mineral water in the room which can be refilled with still or sparkling water in the lobby whenever we like – super convenient and refreshingly eco-friendly.
The staff here are genuinely friendly and helpful and on the night we arrive the hotel hosts complimentary drinks and live music at it’s sister hotel – Hotel Buci – just a couple of doors down. Somehow we even meet an Aussie traveller who lives around the corner from where we used to live in Sydney! It really is a small world after all friends.
Where to Find Great Coffee in Paris’ 6th Arrondissement
We found excellent coffee in Paris and these spots are too good not to share. Our wine tasting host, Erwan told us that whenever he sees someone walking down the street with a takeaway coffee, he knows they’re not French – locals like to sit and savour theirs. So be like a Parisienne and sit down and enjoy your coffee at these top spots.
Bonjour Jacob
Bonjour Jacob delivers hipster vibes, top-notch speciality coffee and also sells a carefully curated selection of magazines. The space is cool but cosy with friendly baristas and a relaxed atmosphere.
Cafe Du Clown
If you think Bonjour Jacob is small, Cafe du Clown is positively bijou! It’s a great spot for a coffee and a homemade croissant though. Inside there are only 3 or 4 tables and although while the furniture leans industrial, the marble counter and vintage tableware remind you that you’re very much in Paris.
They have a curated selection of coffees from renowned roasters with a solid range of espresso based drinks but if like us, you prefer a milk based coffee, the flat whites here are incredibly smooth. It’s laptop and pet friendly and there is seating both inside and out. If you’re lucky, you’ll meet the (extremely well behaved) cafe dog!
Cafe d’Auteur Paris
This place is the real deal with rare beans, artisanal roasting and signature blends, Cafe d’Auteur is all about the coffee. The menu is exceptionally detailed with plenty of choice though we happily stick to our house blend and milk-based coffees which are excellent.
A welcome bonus – there is no charge for oat milk here, what a refreshing change! The staff are friendly and knowledgeable, the space is roomy and laptop friendly and there’s table service so you can really kick back and relax. There’s a small food menu and baked goods and every coffee comes with complimentary gavottes (a crisp crepe biscuit) which is a lovely touch.
Where to Eat Well in Paris’ 6th Arrondissement
Apart from some grazing at wine bars, we ate exclusively in the 6th and were spoilt for choice.
Procope
Given that Procope is the oldest cafe in Paris and it sits right in the heart of Paris St-Germain, it’s no surprise that it’s so popular with visitors. That said, it delivers on quality, serving up classic French dishes in charming, historic surroundings. The food is as rich as the history with both set and a la carte menus on offer – we opt for the a la carte. I start with the prawn cocktail and David goes for the French duck pate croute.
For mains, David has the Angus Beef Flank steak and I choose the traditional Coq au Vin which arrives at the table in a large metal pot and is a very hearty serve. Somehow we still manage to save stomach space for the Profiteroles du Procope (since 1686 no less,) which are stuffed with ice cream, hot chocolate is poured over them at the table. Totally decadent, totally delicious!
We are seated in the salon near the bar with views out to the street. Tables are packed in close but despite the place being full, it’s not too noisy. The historic decor is stunning and I can’t help but imagine what it must have been like when Voltaire was a regular.
Booking ahead is strongly recommended. While there are a few tables for walk ins, the restaurant is hugely popular and queues are very common, even when we leave the restaurant after 10pm! Alternatively visiting during the day for a lighter bite in the Salon Du Cafe is perhaps a relaxed way to have the Procope experience.
Best for: A classic French dinner, first timers in Paris or a special occasion.
Brasserie Des Prés
Brasserie Des Prés feels like a more modern, less touristy alternative to Procope – serving up French classics with a contemporary edge. Part of the La Nouvelle Garde group (we enjoyed Brasserie Dubillot on our last trip to Paris) it’s popular with locals and tourists alike. There are tables for walk ins here too but reservations are highly recommended.
The restaurant is large and lively with several different dining areas – we are seated in the library. Even though the place is packed, the atmosphere is relaxed and we can easily hear ourselves talk. The decor is playful and eclectic with fun details throughout – I mean, just look at those water jugs!
The menu is full of well-executed French favourites and there’s a solid drinks list to match, especially if you fancy a cocktail. To start David orders the paté en croûte while I go for the homemade tarama – both are excellent. For mains, David goes steak frites and have the beef bourguignon which is rich and comforting without feeling heavy. By this point we are so full, we regrettably pass on dessert which is a shame because the Paris-Brest is calling my name.
Best for: a relaxed dinner, classic French comfort food or a lively evening with friends where you still want to talk (and of course, eat well!)
Freddy
Now for something completely different – Freddy! Small, special and serving up tapas-style dishes that slap – eating here is an absolute highlight. The menu is seasonal, the dishes are perfectly balanced and the flavours are genuinely interesting. We work our way through several plates and love every one – this Teriyaki chicken with miso mayo was rich and oh, so juicy!
Seating is all at the counter with high stools but don’t be put off if the bar looks full, the restaurant is deceptively deep so it’s worth heading to the back to see if there’s space. Service is relaxed and the chefs are amazing. We sit at the open kitchen and watch them work with our dishes passed straight across the counter to us.
The wine list is extensive with a good selection by the glass plus a strong cocktail offering. This is one of those places you leave already dreaming about when you can come back.
Best for: Adventurous eaters, a fun date night, a relaxed dinner with great food and wine.
From historic dining rooms and classic French cooking to modern brasseries and standout small plates, the 6th arrondissement really delivers when it comes to eating well. Pair that with excellent coffee spots and lovely places to stay and it’s easy to see why this neighbourhood makes such a great base for a Paris trip. If good food, great wine, and exploring are high on your list, the 6th won’t let you down.
Which of these spots tickle your fancy? Any favourite Paris places I should add to my list for next time?
As always, all food, drink and accommodation was independently paid for and all opinions are my own.
