This is Part 2 of our Northumberland whistlestop tour. If you missed it, you can read Part 1 here → A Whistlestop Tour of Northumberland: Castles, Coast & Market Town (Part 1)
Picking up where we left off… let’s get stuck in, shall we?
Alnwick
Last time we left you in Alnwick, having checked out the amazing Barter Books, spotted the stunning castle and arrived a little too late to check out the renowned gardens. Fortunately, I am a bit more organised where food is concerned and have booked us a table at the popular Market Tavern. It comes highly recommended by our Airbnb host who had me at “proper Northern food.”
The pub is hugely popular with dog-friendly areas and a vast menu that has something for everyone. Upon arrival the pub looks a bit bijou but don’t let appearances fool you, the building stretches all the way book to a large dining room. Service is super friendly – Heather and Richard are from London and can’t believe how jolly everyone is – and although the food takes some time to arrive (the place is packed,) it’s well worth the wait. My mussels are some of the best I’ve ever eaten!
Side note: Pubs and restaurants in Alnwick are extremely popular so it’s well worth booking in advance to avoid disappointment especially in spring and summer.
Warkworth
The next morning we head to Bertram’s in the village of Warkworth for some brunchy sustenance. Cafe by day, bistro by night, this dog-friendly spot is a great pick for breakfast. We book ahead (again) and quickly see why it’s popular.
We’re so hungry, we forget to take any food photos but the guys go for the big Northumberland breakfast, I opt for smashed avo on toast and Heather has granola and berries (note – this is considerably smaller albeit just as delicious as the other dishes.)
Warkworth Castle
There’s a lot to love about Warkworth, not least that there’s free parking all day, every day around the village square. Warkworth is famous for it’s commanding medieval castle and the river that runs through the village. There are clearly marked riverside walks as we’re a bit pushed for time, we head straight for Warkworth Castle. It really is a sight to behold especially with all the daffodils in bloom.
Admission is around £10 for adults, (slightly cheaper if you book online) and free for English Heritage members. As usual, a walk around the outside is enough to satisfy our historical curiosity and before long we’re back in the car and heading to the coast.
Amble
Next stop: Amble. Sitting on the River Coquet estuary, it’s got a cute harbour and more seafood shacks than you can shake a stick at. It’s a little more touristy and a little less quaint than we’d hoped but we have a browse in the souvenir shops and take a little stroll. The main reason we’re here is to check out the puffin cruises.
Coquet Island Puffin Cruise
It’s still a bit early in the season to spot puffins but we’re keen as mustard and cautiously optimistic. Tickets for a one hour puffin cruise cost £20 per person and it’s best to book ahead to avoid disappointment. The cruises run daily (weather permitting) with weekly schedules confirmed each Sunday – you can check their Facebook page for the latest info or give the friendly crew a ring. Today, we’re heading out on one of the smaller boats which takes just 12 passengers. It’s worth noting that there are some steps (with a handrail) to access the boat. Once aboard we set off on our intrepid puffin hunting adventure…
Now I hate to disappoint but we don’t actually see any puffins. Don’t be too sad though because we see a lot of seals! There can be up to 600 here in early summer and they love nothing more than lounging on the rocks like they own the place which I guess they kind of do (at least for part of the year anyway!)
As we circle the island we get an amazing view of the grey seals and being naturally inquisitive a few come surprisingly close to the boat. They honestly remind me of Teddy, only with less fur and longer whiskers!
We also get a great look at the Coquet Island lighthouse which was built in 1841 on the remains of a Benedictine Monastery. Incredibly, you can still spot parts of the original structure, the unpainted stones at the base of the lighthouse form part of a scheduled ancient monument. The last lighthouse keepers left the island in 1999 and it’s been automated ever since. Today, the island is now a safe haven for wildlife including puffins, terns and seals and only RSPB wardens are allowed to set foot on it.
The puffin cruise (even sans puffins) feels like the perfect way to round off a really fabulous 36 hours in Northumberland. Seals, sails and smiles – that’s my kind of happy ending!
From castles and coastlines to cosy cafés and quirky bookshops, Northumberland completely wins us over. We’ve only just scratched the surface, and it’s safe to say we’ll be back – next time with a bit more time, and maybe a few more castle interiors… maybe.
Have you ever visited Northumberland? What were your highlights? If you were planning a short trip like this, would you take a packed itinerary or a more relaxed, wander-and-see approach?
As always, all food, drink and experiences were independently paid for and all opinions are my own.
